The CVEN10D2S-V5 is a 10″ subwoofer built to fit where a normal sub can’t. It’s a shallow-mount design — only 81 mm deep — so it goes under a seat, into a false floor, or into a slim boot build, in spaces that rule out a conventional sub. But it’s a proper 10″: a full-size cone, a big motor, and 750 watts of power handling. Real bass, not a thin speaker pretending to be a subwoofer.
It’s a dual 2-ohm voice coil, so it wires to whatever amplifier you’ve got, and it works from 30 Hz up. The whole design is about one thing: getting genuine low-end into an install that doesn’t have room for the usual answer.
Shallow subs come with trade-offs, and we’ll be honest about them. But when depth is the problem, this is how you still get bass.
£399.99
Out of stock
Real bass where depth is tight
An 81 mm mounting depth fits a full 10″ sub into spaces a normal one won’t.
Most 10″ subs need 120 to 160 mm behind the baffle, which rules them straight out of under-seat spots, false floors and slim boot builds. This one needs 81 mm. That shallow depth is the entire reason it exists: it lets you fit a genuine 10″ cone — 346 cm² of it moving air — into an install that would otherwise force you down to a smaller driver, or no sub at all. You’re not giving up cone area to save depth; you’re giving up depth to keep the cone area.
Wire it to any amp
A dual 2-ohm voice coil gives you the options to match any amplifier.
Two 2-ohm voice coils let you wire for a 1-ohm mono load (coils in parallel), a 4-ohm mono load (in series), or run them independently across two channels. That covers just about any monoblock or bridged amplifier you’d put behind it, and the 1-ohm option is there for the current-hungry amps that reward it. You match the sub to the amp, not the other way round.
A big motor, and a light coil
A large ferrite motor and an eight-layer coil give it grip and power handling.
Behind the cone is a large ferrite motor — a 45-ounce magnet — driving an eight-layer voice coil on a 61 mm (2.4″) aluminium former. Eight layers is a lot of winding, and it’s where the 750-watt power handling and the motor’s firm grip on the cone come from. We wound it in copper-clad aluminium rather than pure copper: the aluminium core keeps a big coil light, so the motor isn’t dragging extra mass around, while the copper cladding carries the current. And the aluminium former pulls heat out of the windings, which is what lets a sub take sustained power without the coil compressing.
A cone built for the boot
An injection-moulded cone and foam surround stand up to the job and the environment.
The cone is injection-moulded — stiff, consistent, and unbothered by damp or temperature swings, which matters for a driver that lives in a boot. It stays rigid as it moves air, so the output stays clean rather than turning to flex and distortion at volume. The foam surround gives the suspension the compliance a sub needs to move freely through its excursion.
Honest about the trade-off
Shallow means moderate excursion, so give it power and the right expectations.
There’s no free lunch with a shallow sub. To lose the depth, you lose some excursion — this one moves about 5.2 mm each way, where a full-depth 10″ might do a good deal more — and its sensitivity is modest at 84.5 dB. So it likes power: it’s built to take 750 watts, and it wants a healthy share of that to sing. If you have the depth for a conventional sub, one will hit harder. But when you don’t — and in a lot of modern cars you don’t — this gets you real, tuneful bass where the alternative was none.
Fitment and build
A 232 mm cut-out, 81 mm of depth, and a build made for the install.
It drops into a 232 mm cut-out at 81 mm deep, on a steel basket with a NOMEX spider for a durable, consistent suspension, and push terminals for a quick connection. Put it in a sealed box, an under-seat enclosure or a custom shallow build, and it does exactly what it’s there for: bass in a space that said no to everything else.
